Whenever someone decides to take the initiative to restore a car, it
requires a serious commitment. I have seen too many people begin work
and never finish. The successful car
restorer chooses a car that fits his/her personality and budget, and
follows the job through to the end. One must have a love for the
process as well as the product, or the project will be rushed and end
up to be worthless. I learned this tedious process when I was just 14
years old, barely able to perform the difficult and sometimes dangerous
tasks that are required to complete a show car. I would not recommend
taking the steps I did my first time, so I will outline the best method
I have learned through experience.
Most restoration projects are
simple vehicles to begin with, so it is not very difficult to know what
is what. For those of us who do not know all the tricks or do not like
to write things down I think a book is very helpful. I recommend one
from the Chilton’s Automotive Guide series. These guides are available
for almost any car, so finding one for your project should not be a
problem. They feature blown up diagrams of the complicated systems of
the car like the distributor, under-dash wiring, and engine internals.
This can be very helpful in those frustrating times when there are
parts strewn from wall to wall in no particular order. Mine was an
integral part of the process on my 1969 Chevy project.
Most people who are new to the project car scene tend to
begin the project with cosmetics such as paint, interior vinyl, and
carpeting, and chromed accessories. This will not pay off in the end.
The place to start is with the engine and suspension. In doing this at
the beginning, you will minimize the chance of damaging expensive
cosmetics and having to redo your work unnecessarily.
For example, I
was doing some major engine work after my car had been painted, and a
slight shift of the hydraulic engine lift spelled disaster for a
section of my newly coated fender. If the suspension components of
your car are badly worn, consider replacement. A good way to check for
broken or worn components in the front suspension is to lift the frame
of the car until the front wheels leave the ground; then put one hand
on each side of the tire and try and move it back and forth in the same
motion that the steering mechanisms turn it. If it moves more than a
quarter of an inch in either direction, the main bearings should be
replaced. As far as the other components in the front as well as the
back, a visual inspection for breakage is all that is needed. A-arms,
control arms, and pivots should all be re-packed with a high quality
lithium grease, and detailing the undercarriage with some rubberized
undercoating and flat black paint will impress people at the car
shows. The shock absorbers on certain antique cars can be very rare,
so if you are lucky enough to find a set it is a good idea to get it if
the original shocks are bad. My Chevy is a popular project car, and
shocks were easily obtained. A 1935 DeSoto Airstream like the one my
father is restoring could require some searching, however. When you
bounce the car up and down and let go, the car should only bounce one
more time. If it bounces two or more times, the shocks should be
replaced.
The engine
is the heart of every car. This is where most car restorers
get creative and express their desire for power. Of course, if you are
following the true definition of restoration you will make everything
look and function as it did when it left the factory. It is not
uncommon, however, to add and improve a few things under the hood.
Engines vary so much from car to car that I will not talk about them
all. Most restored cars from the 1930’s to the 1950’s had in-line
six cylinder engines, with an intake on one side and an exhaust
manifold on the other. They were very simple and reliable, but options
for updating them in a project car are few. During the 1960’s, the V-8
gained a lot of popularity as the American “muscle car” was born. The
small block Chevrolet V-8 is the engine to get if you want to keep your
options open. There are endless possibilities for carburetor,
exhaust, ignition, cooling, and transmission compatibility. These
engines can generate anywhere from 150 horsepower to a stout 800 ponies
with the help of nitrous oxide fuels. For the common enthusiast, an
aluminum air intake and a four-barrel carburetor combine to make the
perfect upgrade. I took this path, increasing the horsepower of my
307-cubic-inch V-8 from 200 to around 245. If oil is passing by the
pistons into the firing chambers and being exhausted in the form of
blue smoke, rebuilding the engine is a good idea. This process is not
as difficult as it might seem, but there are many specialty tools
required like an engine hoist, piston ring pliers, and a cylinder
reamer. It is a good idea to have it done professionally if the tools
are not readily available. I was lucky enough to have the garage space
and tools to complete the job myself, but I would only recommend this
if you have a lot of time to spend on your engine. The more time that
is spent on the engine the better the project will be in the end.
Once the mechanical systems of the car have been completed, the
interior (passenger compartment) is the most logical step to complete
next. The cloth that lines the roof is called the headliner. If it is
in good shape, you are already half done. Replacement of the headliner
requires the removal of all interior moldings around the doors,
windows, and floor. When the new one is clipped into place, a misting
with a spray bottle of water will cause the material to tighten as in
evaporates (believe me, it makes a huge difference). If the seat
covers do not have any holes or serious fading problems, a coat of
protective sealant should make them look like new. If not, they can be
replaced easily with a set of upholstery hog rings and pliers. Removal
of them is required, however. While the seats are out of the car, the
carpeting and sound-deadening material can be replaced. Make sure you
take the time to position, cut the carpet perfectly, and glue every
part of it into place. You will be thankful later when you try and
slide the seats back in, especially if you do not have an extra set of
hands to hold the carpeting in place with the seat and bolt cutouts
perfectly aligned.
If the dashboard is cracked or faded, a terrific
solution is a dash cap. These sell for about 50 dollars and slide
over your existing dash perfectly. This is an inexpensive and easy way
to restore the dash to a like-new appearance. Mine installed in about
five minutes with some silicone adhesive and some weights to hold it
down. A few trim pieces and some touch-up paint will complete the
interior.
Now the artistic part of the project begins. I say artistic because
if you do not enjoy shaping and smoothing the body panels on the car,
you will never make it through the job. Most bodywork can be done with
some body filler, an orbital sander, and some patience. Gaping holes
and rotted panel mounts must be handed over to a professional, who will
either replace the panel or reconstruct it with fiberglass resin.
Special attention must be paid to the window channels underneath the
molding where rust usually takes its toll. I did all of the basic
reconstruction on my Chevy’s panels. If you are willing to tackle the
gaping holes, fiberglass matting with a coat of resin on each side will
create a rock-hard repair. The final smoothing and straightening had
to be professionally done, but I saved a lot of money just by covering
the holes. When the body is complete, it is a good idea to dip into
your pocket and pay a professional to spray a perfect layer of paint on
the car. This will finish off all the work you have done and it will
transform the car’s appearance drastically. Painting a car is an
extremely delicate art, and equipment such as a spray booth and
compressors are necessary to do the job right.
After putting on a good set of tires and wheels that have been painted
and polished and adding a few additional personal touches, your project
car is ready to drive. I went to a car show in Hershey, Pennsylvania
and picked up a set of four 1973 Buick wheels that resembled the 1969
Chevy’s. A little polish and touch-up paint made them look like new.
If you buy used wheels, pay very close attention to the edges to make
sure there are no irregularities to cause a vibration at high speeds.
Common sense is the only thing you need to refer to when picking up
used parts. If the time is taken to do each step correctly, the result
is phenomenal. The work is never done, however. An antique is always
in need of attention and maintenance, and you cannot afford to let your
restoration work and money go to waste. These projects have proven to
be some of the most rewarding hobbies in my life, as well as for
countless other people who enjoy hands-on work and a thrilling driving
experience.
Amanda Pierce
AskPatty Automotive Expert Woman
Toyota Service Manager- Toyota of Hopkinsville
Amanda “AJ” Pierce began her automotive dabbling
as a young child, the only child of a serviceman used their bonding time working
on the families hotrods. In high
school she broke the gender barrier in automotive class by being the first
female to enter and complete the two-year program at Pender High School. Upon graduation at Pender, Amanda
enrolled in the General Motors Automotive Excellency Program (GM, ASEP) also
being the first female to complete and graduate on September 11,
2002.
Amanda was a line mechanic for Rippy Automotive in
Wilmington, NC,
also presenting seminars to women leadership groups attended UNC Wilmington,
until moving to Alaska with her husband due to an Army
transfer. Raising a child and
attending classes to obtain her bachelors’ in business management from UoPhoenix
her husband was deployed to Afghanistan, at that time Amanda adopted the
responsibility of educating the women of deployed soldiers on basic automotive
and how to take care of themselves while their husbands were off serving our
country.
Amanda currently is an Assistant Service
manager at Toyota of Hopkinsville with aspirations of opening a custom
motorcycle shop, she is committed to the education of women and passionate about
her “hobby.”
automotive advice for women
