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I bought a 98 Honda CRV in September 2012. It ran great until the beginning of March. It began stalling while driving. It happened once in the beginning of March and then didn't happen again until a month later. It has since become more frequently. Once it became frequent the check engine light came on. I received a P0108 diagnostic code (Map Sensor). I replaced the Map Sensor, reset the check engine light and after the vehicle warmed up, it stalled. Common causes for this code are a defective Map Sensor, Intake Manifold Vacuum Leaks and Faulty/Corroded Map Sensor wiring or connections I took it to my mechanic who could not reproduce the problem (Of course it didn't stall when he had it). Therefore I returned the Map Sensor since it apparently wasn't the problem. WITHOUT a check engine light, the time consuming labor cost can be expensive. I'm currently unemployed, so it sits in my driveway while I conduct a process of elimination and I refuse to drive it to avoid having an accident. The re-occurring symptom I have found is that it stalls once the vehicle warms up. Once it warms up, the rpms drop to 600. Shortly thereafter it stalls. This usually occurs within 4-5 minutes after starting the vehicle while it sits in the driveway. No other electronic parts are on at the time. No radio, A.C., heater...nothing that would cause an electrical load. I bought a battery shortly after purchasing the vehicle. When it first started stalling I took it to Auto Zone for a battery and alternator check which came back fine. I then changed the fuel filter and air filter to no avail. It needed a tune-up, so I replaced the spark plugs and wires. I also cleaned the IAVC, but it wasn't really dirty. An internet search of Honda forums revealed an issue of Honda's stalling regardless of model. Several consumers have gone for months up to a year spending loads of money replacing several parts without a solution. Though I've found that those whose resolved their stalling issues replaced the crank sensor, ICM , the distributor housing or the distributor as a whole. There were 2 recalls on my vehicle which could cause the stall (ignition switch and wiring harness). I contacted Honda and they confirmed the recalls were completed on my vehicle. I found that the common misdiagnoses for replacing the map sensor could be an intake manifold vacuum leak, a stuck open EGR valve and defective idle air control motor. Question#1: Have you found this apparently very common issue with Honda CRVs and if so, what appears to be the most frequent cause? Question #2: Can any of the above misdiagnoses occur ONLY after the vehicle warms up? Question #3: AFTER warm-up would a faulty ICM, crank sensor and/or the distributor cause it to stall? Thank you in advance for your much needed assistance in this matter.

Answers from the Automotive Experts

Amanda J. Pierce, MBA Dawn, The first thing I would do is, look at live data while the vehicle is running to check the long fuel trim for a possible vacuum Leak. If you suspect a stuck EGR valve,look at the EGR position sensor while the vehicle is running. I don't suspect a crank sensor if the vehicle starts back up after stalling. Hope this gives you more of a direction for diagnosis. Feel free to write us back, with further questions.

Helaine Kurot, Owner/Technician at 360 Automotive Has the timing belt on this vehicle ever been done? If the timing is off, can/will set a MAP code as well. Their may be a base electrical issue with the MAP sensor circuit. These cars also have issues with the valves getting sucked up into the cylinder heads. A good diagnostic technician will be able to give you a better direction for diagnostics. With or without a check engine light, proper diagnosis may not be cheap. Pulling the code does not tell you what is wrong with the car (as replacing the map sensor for a map circuit code did not work). A qualified tech should be able to narrow it down to the actual cause(s) of the issue, instead of continuing to throw unneeded parts at the car that may not be able to be returned.

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